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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.